Salt Cay, Turks and Caicos Islands - Whale Watching, Diving, Snorkelling, Amphibious Adventures & Island Thyme Bistro

Salt Cay Turks and Caicos Islands

Salt Cay is another of Turks and Caicos’ unique islands. With a population that hovers at around 100 (and nearly that many donkeys), the island’s vibe is a result of the remarkable amount of diversity to be found. Turks Islanders, Americans, Filipinos, Dominicans and Haitians all live and work on this little 2.5 square mile, triangular shaped island. And, even though you may never have heard of Salt Cay before you laid eyes on this story, Salt Cay along with Grand Turk and South Caicos, enjoyed fame in its day.

A photograph of sunrise over the Salt Cay salt pans, Turks and Caicos Islands, British West Indies Sunrise over the Salt Cay salt pans

Prior to Ponce de Leon’s arrival in 1512 the islands were inhabited by Arawak people. On departure, the Spanish kidnapped most of the Arawak living on Grand Turk and Salt Cay and put them to use as slave labour. Of the few remaining individuals in the region, the last died around 1520. Salt Cay remained uninhabited until Bermudans arrived in the 1600s, and the islands came back to life, supporting a population of hundreds and enjoying a period of prosperity as one of the world’s premier producers of salt.

In the 1920s and 30s the salt trade came to a halt in The Turks and Caicos Islands; the demise was due in part to a lack of a deep water harbour to accommodate transport vessels. It was common, up until that point, for several ships to be anchored off shore, waiting for ferries to sail out to them and slowly fill their holds with cargo.

A photograph of the Salt Cay airport building, Turks and Caicos Islands, British West Indies Welcome to the Salt Cay airport building

While many visitors to the Turks & Caicos Islands don’t realise there is more to the Turks & Caicos Islands than beautiful Grace Bay on Providenciales, or Margarittaville at the cruise ship terminal on Grand Turk, Salt Cay has a devoted following consisting of... pretty much everyone who has ever visited! Repeat customers are welcomed as friends, which really means something on an island where friends are treated as family!

Getting to and from Salt Cay is just the beginning of a number of adventures in store for you on this, ‘Island that Time Forgot’. For our trip to Salt Cay, I planned to fly into Grand Turk to visit some friends made during my recent trip there (see page 130 in Nov/Dec 2011) and then make our way to Salt Cay via ferry. Haidee and her husband Porter own Porter’s Island Thyme, one of a handful of restaurants on this tiny island. Haidee was instrumental in organising my trip, even arranging for Porter to meet us at the ferry, which departs Grand Turk’s South Dock. Porter was on a shopping trip to Grand Turk to gather supplies for the restaurant and the guesthouses he and Haidee manage. Although the ferry ride is a good 40 minutes, we passed the time listening to Salt Cay residents carry out an island cultural ritual – lighthearted teasing and general banter.

A photograph of a house on Salt Cay, Turks and Caicos Islands, British West Indies A house on Salt Cay, Turks and Caicos Islands

On arrival we were greeted by our auto rental... a forest green hybrid golf cart, “The limousine of golf carts,” we were told. Salt Cay has very few vehicles and, with a scant few miles to cover, they’re mostly unnecessary for vacationers. A golf cart is environmentally friendly and fiscally responsible. Also, fun! For this trip, I enlisted a few girlfriends from Providenciales to come along with me, and somehow I was voted designated driver. If you’re even the slightest bit concerned about navigating the island on your own, I should tell you that my sense of direction is only slightly worse than my depth perception, yet miraculously I managed to move us around the island in shady comfort.

We were booked into The Castaway, two lovely little rooms inside bungalows on the North Shore of the island. We really felt as though we were the only people in the entire world when we arrived there. The rooms were immaculate and so sweetly decorated, exactly what you would hope for (but wouldn’t dare to expect) from a beach front room on a remote island. Every detail was attended to; there was a packed beach bag ready to go the few steps to the sea, and a fresh–water footbath prepared outside your room to clean off sandy feet!

A photograph of a donkey walking past a Boutique on Salt Cay, Turks and Caicos Islands, British West Indies Donkey walking past a Boutique on Salt Cay

We spent a couple hours chatting, relaxing and enjoying the view before hopping back onto the golf cart and racing back to ‘town’ in time for dinner at Porter’s Island Thyme.

There’s something to be said for an island where one of the most important forms of socialising and entertaining is eating; although getting supplies on Salt Cay is sometimes an arduous task, the food is phenomenal. We ordered our entrees early in the day, a practise encouraged in order to help staff at island restaurants plan for guests’ evening meals.

Many guests of Salt Cay come for the annual migration of Humpback Whales, who cruise through the Columbus Passage every year from Jan to April. You can actually sit on the patio at Coral Reef Bar & Grill and watch the whales perform! Debbie Manos, proprietress of both Coral Reef and Salt Cay Divers, occasionally has to remind guests that, although whales are definitely around at that time of year, the sea is not Marine Land and no one can guarantee a show. In direct contradiction of this caveat to guests, Debbie was briefing a group about the whale watching experience when, as if on cue, a whale breached the surface directly in front of the restaurant.

A photograph of a windmill on the salt pans of Salt Cay, Turks and Caicos Islands, British West Indies Remnants of a windmill on the salt pans

We sat and talked with Debbie for a long time as she explained to us all the activities there are on Salt Cay for tourists. Although the diving is fantastic, she is anxious to be sure we know all that Salt Cay has to offer. “We have the best snorkelling in the Turks Islands because we have shore diving. The beach right in front of The Castaways is one of the premier spots. The beach is public for everyone but usually you don’t find anyone else!” She’s right, we haven’t seen a soul anywhere near our beautiful little pied de terre on Salt Cay! She also recommended checking out shelling on Schoolyard Beach and Bonefishing, which you can do without a guide right off shore on Salt Cay (with just a fishing license easily purchased at the District Commissioners Office).

Salt Cay is also a popular place for Birders with opportunities to spot some rare seabirds. You can also do a bird excursion from Salt Cay to Great Sand Cay, “It’s a bird sanctuary, and it’s amazing!” Debbie tells us, “I went with two bird experts and spent a day and learned so much information about birds and nesting and patterns. There are thousands of birds!” According to Debbie, the beach on Great Sand Cay is truly the best in the world.

Really though, one of the neatest things we learned from Debbie is something that I think is an amazing benefit to parents with kids. “What’s really fun is when kids come down, they’re allowed to go to school for the day and see what it’s like to be a student here.” she adds, “Beaches has a lot to offer, but I think we have as much, in a different way. And clearly Salt Cay is not for everyone!”

A photograph of the windows on the White House on Salt Cay, Turks and Caicos Islands, British West Indies Windows on the White House on Salt Cay

We ended up having breakfast and lunch at Coral Reef Bar & Grill and it was more fantastic food served by friendly staff. We actually delayed heading to the airport so we could sample one of their handmade desserts! If you have any doubt at all about how much we loved every bite of food we had on Salt Cay, just ask the guy at the airport who had to record our weight prior to the flight home!

What were the highlights of our trip? Peaceful time to goof–off with great friends and few distractions! Food that still makes my mouth water just thinking about it. The kind of small–town informality and feeling of incredible security that you just don’t find in most of the world anymore. And, of course, friendly people who are happy to make your stay fun and fabulous. One trip to Salt Cay and I’m totally enthralled, will be planning my next trip by the time you’re reading this story!

Even if you don’t happen to be visiting during whale season, Salt Cay has some interesting historical sites and some great outdoor family friendly activities to keep you entertained.

Just some of the other activities Salt Cay is great for: Kayaking, fishing, swimming, snorkelling, diving, hiking, biking, bird watching, beachcombing, and of course, eating, drinking and being merry!

Historical Sites

The White House, built by salt–baron Alexander Harriott, stands next to the last remaining boat house and salt shed on Salt Cay. Boats still shelter here after a day of fishing.

The Brown House (now called Sunnyside), also built by Alexander Harriott is another historic salt plantation home on Salt Cay.

The Dunscombe Point Millworks is located on a lovely, treed lot is where the remains of an old stone mill still stand.

Taylor Hill, provides a stunning view of the entire island and its surrounding seas.

The Salinas are impossible to miss. Once a plot of land where crops were grown and harvested, the land was converted to saltpans. The hand laid stone dykes and canals are impressive as are the remains of the nine windmills that were once used to push saltwater into the drying pans.

Story by Kathryn Fox

Salt Cay photos have been provided by Amphibious Adventures.

Salt Cay Business Directory

Caicos Express Airways

Flights to Salt Cay ($170 RT per person, subject to change) +1-649-232-1982.
Crystal Seas Adventures

Ultimate in Personalized Aqua Adventures, All-Inclusive Whale Watching +1-649-243-9843 www.CrystalSeasAdventures.com.
Dive Salt Cay and More

Weeklong / Weekend Retreats, Getaway Packages, accommodations, dining, excursions included. Call Haidee +1-772-713-9502 www.DiveSaltCayandMore.com.
Island Thyme Bistro

Breakfast, lunch and gourmet dinners, full bar, weekly special events. Visit the website for the blog and the newsletter.
Contact details for Island Thyme Bistro
Salt Cay Divers

Day trips planned, whale watching, diving and snorkelling. Call Debbie +1-649-241-1009 www.SaltCayDivers.tc
Tours from Providenciales

Amphibious Adventures - Day and multi-day guided trips to explore Salt Cay and Big Sand Cay.
Contact details for Amphibious Adventures