Turks and Caicos Dining, Restaurants Feature Article from Where When How Turks and Caicos Islands Magazine

Turks & Caicos Islands, Sunday 20 May 2012

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Dining Island Style in the Turks and Caicos Islands

Where When How - Turks & Caicos Islands - March / April 2012 magazine cover.Where When How Turks & Caicos Islands March / April 2012

An Infusion of World Tastes

Story By Mandy Rostance-Wolf

A chef is an artist; a performer whose passion, energy and creativity is channeled through their culinary creations. Unlike their theatrical and musical counterparts who bask in the limelight for the entire show; these connoisseurs of cuisine take on more of an enigmatic presence – shrouded in the mystery of the kitchen. Continually ‘on stage’ behind the scenes, it’s a rare indulgence to see the masters behind your epicurean works of art; oftentimes no more than a fleeting and ephemeral blur as the starched and immaculate white tunic dashes through the dining room; eager for a brief intermission to greet their audience that took great gastronomic pleasure in this ‘act’, with the evenings’ performance far from the final curtain call.

A photograph of Grace Bay Beachfront Dining at Bay Bistro at Sibonne Beach Hotel, Providenciales (Provo), Turks and Caicos Islands.Grace Bay Beachfront Dining at Bay Bistro at Sibonne Beach Hotel - Photo provided by Bay Bistro

Adventurous and charismatic chefs gravitate here from around the world, drawn by the consummate climate and the exceptional lifestyle that the Caribbean affords. Each contributes their own unique slant to island menus, with one inherent commonality; the authentic and distinctive tastes of the Caribbean are essentially infused into all island menus producing some of the most innovative and artistic culinary treasures in the world. Jamaican, Italian, Thai, Indian, Japanese including world–class sushi, French, American, Mexican, Irish and British influences all coexist with local Caribbean flavours effectuating an unmatched synthesis of tastes exclusive to the Turks and Caicos Islands. And yes, there is even pizza!

A photograph of Caicos Cafe Chef Max Olivari Preparing Pasta, Providenciales (Provo), Turks and Caicos Islands.Caicos Cafe Chef Max Olivari Preparing Pasta - Photo provided by Caicos Cafe

‘See the world, join the Navy’ is an old but classic adage; and from my experiences its epicurean equivalent could easily be, ‘See the world, become a chef!’ And for some chefs that have graced these paradisiacal shores, yet another classic adage rings sad, but true, ‘Here today – Gone tomorrow’. In fact, I must admit that throughout my privileged experiences of chronicling many of our chef’s stories, one could almost surmise that a GPS (Global Positioning System) of sorts should be attached to their tocques! Their paths would often reveal a remarkable and wide–ranging journey focused around discovering and experiencing food and the cultures where they live... at the time. Essentially blazing a trail leaving their personal culinary marks all over the world; and leaving me never really knowing whether my particular narrative may be the beginning, the middle or the end; at least as far as Provo’s shores are concerned. Long–time residents and regular visitors will commiserate to experiencing the irrepressible onset of a melancholy mood upon discovering that a favourite chef has recently departed to yet another exotic and exciting locale to carve one more notch into their proverbial butcher block. While there is no need to suffer from the symptoms of culinary withdrawal, what’s important to note is that they all have left an indelible influence on our island’s cuisine. Their presence and their contributions are an essential and fundamental part of the foundation of the dishes we have enjoyed in the past; the dishes we enjoy today and genesis for the tastes we will enjoy tomorrow. And rest assured... they probably left all the recipes! What’s more... there’s always fevered excitement and ardent anticipation island–wide upon discovering that there’s a new chef in town; all palates eager to experience a completely new influence; a refreshing new brand of culinary magic.

A photograph of Coyaba Chef Paul Newman’s Crispy Fried Whole Caribbean Yellow Tail Snapper, Providenciales (Provo), Turks and Caicos Islands.Coyaba Chef Paul Newman’s Crispy Fried Whole Caribbean Yellow Tail Snapper - Photo by Nick Brown

Restaurants are scattered all along the crescent shaped island from the east to the west with the lion’s share of Provo’s restaurants located in the Grace Bay Beach area. A picture may be worth a thousand words, but the views from Grace Bay Beach restaurants will leave you speechless! Al fresco dining is a popular choice with many restaurants taking full advantage of Mother Nature’s decorating flair, flaunting lovely lush and tropical garden surroundings augmented by graceful, sweeping palms; with many taking on a romantic and enchanted aura in the evenings illuminated by tiki torches and fairy lights. Many have boardwalks leading right to the island’s famous main attraction encouraging a front row, unobstructed view of the magnificent vista of Grace Bay Beach and beyond by day; or the always dramatic, awe–inspiring evening sunset show presented each night. Visitors staying in the Grace Bay area have easy walking access not only to the beachfront restaurant locations, but also to venues located on Grace Bay Road, The Saltmills, The Regent Village and Ports of Call each offering their own twist of tropically inspired ambiances.

A photograph of Grace’s Cottage Picturesque Gingerbread Gazebos at Point Grace, Providenciales (Provo), Turks and Caicos Islands.Dine in Grace’s Cottage Picturesque Gingerbread Gazebos at Point Grace

There are several other unique and equally appealing locales to consider. Imagine your island dining experience overlooking the breathtaking, emerald green fairways of one of the top rated golf courses in the Caribbean; or in the middle of a sumptuous coconut grove under a ceiling of palms rustling in the sultry evening breezes or suspended high above Turtle Cove Marina with a panoramic view of the marina, Grace Bay and the reef beyond, inclusive of one of the most magnificent sunset locations imaginable. At ground level in Turtle Cove Marina, a meandering boardwalk connects some of Provo’s favourite dining spots and gathering places, be it to enjoy a quiet, romantic dinner, or a casual, family friendly laid–back evening. There’s even a New York style deli providing original deli–style staples for your villa or condo pantry!

A photograph of Indian Delicacies at Garam Masala, Providenciales (Provo), Turks and Caicos Islands.Enjoy Indian Delicacies at Garam Masala at the Regent Village

To adequately do justice to all of Provo’s spectacular restaurants, passionate chefs and incomparable dishes, you would need an entire magazine... and auspiciously, there is one! The Providenciales Dining Guide, a supplement to Where, When, How is a comprehensive compendium featuring selected Provo restaurants. Each establishment brandishes a brief but concise depiction of its genre and ambiance plus a sample menu. Individual chefs have generously contributed some favourite and popular recipes so you can perpetuate your island food fantasies long after your inevitable return to reality. You can even go ‘behind the toque’ and read–up on some of our ‘Featured Chefs’ from our ‘Community of International Culinary Masters’. Also consult the ‘Where to Dine’ department of the Where When How magazine for a complete but more condensed restaurant guide complemented by Restaurants Reviewed. You may only have seven days to explore and discover the myriad of tastes Provo has to offer, so take advantage of every opportunity and prepare your bold and adventurous palate to embark on this tropical gastronomic journey. The Dining Guide alone boasts over 50 restaurants... you do the math!

A photograph of Live Music Under the Trees at Opus, Providenciales (Provo), Turks and Caicos Islands.Fresh Local Seafood and Live Music Under the Trees at Opus

The absolute dining experience of food and atmosphere is urged whenever possible... however, extenuating circumstances may prevail. If you’ve over–indulged in beach activities (a.k.a. sunbathing) or water sports or you just need to spend a night ‘in’, you can still enjoy a multitude of Provo’s dining specialties in the relaxation, privacy and comfort of your own condo, hotel or villa. Many offer take–out and catering services and there are even a few who will deliver!

I am repeatedly asked, ‘what is the best restaurant on Provo’? And much to the dismay and frustration of each solicitation I am forced to admit – that is a question that has no clear–cut answer. It always has and always will be an epicurean enigma! It’s about mood; it’s about location; it’s about personal preferences; it’s about atmosphere; it’s about menus and it’s even about cost. What I will undeniably endorse and advocate is that everyone who visits these shores should and must experience our incredible, edible natural resources; conch and lobster – two principal and lucrative exports of the islands; and of course, our fresh–caught fish reeled in daily by our local fishermen.

A photograph of Lasagna at Baci Ristorante in Turtle Cove, Providenciales (Provo), Turks and Caicos Islands.Baci Ristorante in Turtle Cove is famous for Lobster Tails, Fresh Seafood, Lasagna and Pizza

If this is your first time experiencing Provo, it likely won’t be your last, and you will most certainly have heard the word ‘conch’ (pronounced konk) at least once, or heard the unmistakable and rhythmic ‘whacking’ sound pulsating from the kitchen as a fellow diner awaits their tenderized conch creation! Abundant in these islands, the Caribbean Queen Conch is a sweet tasting mollusk that has been a staple of the local diet dating back to the Arawak Indians. Prepared in a multitude of ways, it is considered by some to be an aphrodisiac and is served in almost every restaurant from barefoot and casual to the finest dining establishments. Now, let’s test your conch I.Q. True or false? If you’ve tasted one conch fritter, you’ve tasted ‘em all? Absolutely false! To further complicate this conch conundrum, not all conch delicacies are created alike. Each and every chef at each and every restaurant has their own adaptation and variation on everything from conch fritters to conch chowder and from conch salad to cracked conch. Exploring and experiencing the cornucopia of conch creations could be a culinary challenge unto itself!

August 1st through March 31st is the much–sanctified season of our local Caribbean spiny lobster. You can usually ascertain the first day of lobster season as the sidewalks are generally ‘rolled up’ and anyone who has a boat; or knows someone who has a boat; or knows someone who knows someone who has a boat has ‘gone lobster fishin’! That evening, island residents and visitors alike anticipate the many new lobster creations and old favourites featured on island menus. Like conch, lobster is prepared in so many delectable and heavenly ways, blackened, grilled, tempura, jerked and thermidor, just to name a few, and in an endless medley of pasta variations.

A photograph of Friday Happy Hour at Sharkbite, Providenciales (Provo), Turks and Caicos Islands.Over the Water in Turtle Cove Dine at Sharkbite - Popular Friday Happy Hour

The waters that surround and envelop the Turks and Caicos Islands are recognized as a world–renowned fishing ‘hotspot’ teeming with many varieties of fish. Local fisherman ensure a constant supply of fresh caught fish while our ingenious and savvy chefs take over and work their culinary mastery with these treasures of the sea as they make their re–appearance on island menus. Nothing equals the flavour and texture of the ‘catch of the day’ and our creative and resourceful chefs never seem to run out of imaginative and enterprising new ways to prepare them. Coconut encrusted, plantain encrusted, blackened, jerked, and Creole barely scratch the surface, while many opt for the more natural and uncomplicated approach of simply grilled, pan–fried, steamed and boiled. Take that ‘au naturel’ concept one–step further and experience genuine, ‘melt in your mouth’ flavours that only sashimi, sushi and rare–seared can procure.

‘Jerk’ here is used in the culinary sense and is in no way offensive! There are many beliefs and suggestions as to where jerk originated and how the term came about, further compounded by which combination of primary spices to use, but at the end of the day, it’s the undeniable, unmatched taste of chicken, pork, beef or seafood that has been ‘jerked’ is what it’s really all about!

A photograph of Conch Ravioli at Coco Bistro, Providenciales (Provo), Turks and Caicos Islands.Enjoy Conch Ravioli Under the Palms at Coco Bistro - Photo provided by Coco Bistro

Think New York’s Broadway and London’s West End and take in as many culinary performances as you possibly can... your palate will be very entertained. Many of our dining establishments recommend making reservations in advance; and there are even a few where reservations are a must to avoid disappointment as a full house is not an uncommon occurrence, particularly during peak seasons. The TCI passed the one million mark for visitors in 2011; and with roughly three hundred thousand heads in Provo beds alone; that adds up to a lot of reservations... and a lot of conch fritters!

Only a handful of decades ago, travelling was considered a glamorous commodity, where it seemed that only the rich, famous and the well–healed frequented these exotic destinations. Today, getting on a plane is like getting on a bus; only with intrusive and annoying security screenings. The TCI is not only a celebrated and sought after travel destination... it is garnering increasing recognition around the globe as a culinary destination as well. Host to world–class food and wine festivals like November 2011’s first ever Caribbean Food and Wine Festival and 5th Gourmet Safari. Guests indulged in an out–and–out gourmet culinary extravaganza of food and wine featuring not only celebrated culinary masters from our own shores and beyond; but an array of fascinating personalities and talented professionals in their field. An impressive and extraordinary carte du jour of outstanding food and wine events were held at several of Providenciales’ award–winning resort properties and restaurants.

A photograph of Elegant Beachfront Dining at Anacaona at the Grace Bay Club, Providenciales (Provo), Turks and Caicos Islands.Elegant Beachfront Dining at Anacaona at the Grace Bay Club

Our annual Conch Festival has evolved into a colossal cultural happening paying homage and reverence to this monumental mollusk. The last Saturday of November, the scenic Blue Hills area plays host to this family–friendly event that has progressively grown to noteworthy status (2012 marks festival #9); featuring a ‘conch–e–tition’ where a veritable smorgasbord of edible entries are judged from a variety of our restaurants and chefs from classic, time–honored recipes to original, newfangled creations.

Middle Caicos has also gotten in on the action... committed to paying tribute to the crab; an overlooked and often ignored crustacean in this conch and lobster crazed world. Rumour has it that this festival is soon to be a celebrated cultural event to be reckoned with! Watch for the 2nd Annual Crabfest in June 2012 on beautiful Bambarra Beach.

It’s time for our culinary consortium of dynamic and colourful chefs to take centre stage and to take a well–deserved and long–overdue bow. It’s time for us to pay tribute to their great works of ‘art’; dishes deemed to be an epicurean tour de force; an unforgettable and mouth–watering magnum opus worthy of a culinary standing ovation.

As the infrared heat lamps are dimmed and this evening’s artistic and creative culinary act has come to a delicious and memorable end; I am convinced you will be compelled to marvel and wonder... just what do they do for an encore?

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